February 20, 2009 (Friday)
It is 6:00am on the dot, and the sounds of three separate alarm clocks sang together to wake up three very, very tired girls. I reached for my alarm clock, but, for the first time since my arrival in Italy, I did not hit the snooze button - the thought of missing the train sent shivers up my back, and I got out of bed quickly. A mix of joy and excitement quickly filled our apartment - WE ARE GOING TO VENICE! This thought spun in my head, teasing me with the endless possibilities of what lies ahead. We packed our bags and got ready quickly, had our tea (something that is becoming a sort of tradition each morning), and sped out the front door into the fresh, crisp morning in Florence.
I still cannot get used to the excitement and beauty of the morning atmosphere in Florence - the opening up of the little coffee shops where most Italians have their traditional breakfast - a coffee and a pastry, the setting up of the outside market, the morning work traffic heading for the city center, and, one of my favorites - the opening of the window shutters as the Italian people welcome sunshine into their homes.
Venice is a three hour train ride from Florence, and I took this opportunity to catch up on some shuteye (although I do wish I would have stayed up to see the beautiful hills, valleys and scenery of the Tuscan region). At approximately 11:30 we reached our destination - Venice: the city of beauty, the city of art and, needless to say, the city of eternal love. I was overpowered by a waterfall of emotions the second my eyes caught a glimpse of the beautiful cathedral that lies straight across from the train station, right over the Grand Canal. Water, gondolas, a musician playing a heavenly tune on his violin, colorful Carnival masks, laughter of little children running around in costumes portraying every animal in the zoo, beautiful women in gowns that would put the Queen of England to shame... I must still be dreaming!
Yet I was awake, and this magical fairytale around me WAS reality. We were in Venice. We were in the most fascinating city in the world. We were in a city with no cars and roads. My racing thoughts overwhelmed me, but thankfully I was able to get my head straight to ask a nearby police officer, in Italian of course, for directions to our hotel. I am not sure why it excited me so much when he told me to take "la barca numero cinquanta due," boat number 52 - I mean, I KNEW coming to Venice that there were no taxis, no actual taxi cars for that matter, but the thought of getting around in a boat completely fascinated me!
We got on our water bus and took a short ride to our hotel. While on the boat I had to, once again, pinch myself to make sure I was not dreaming - the wind blowing in my hair, the beautiful gondolas passing us by, the delicious scent of the crisp air, the sunshine warming my skin - it was just too good to be true! Upon our arrival to the hotel, we did not do the typical "sit around, unpack, relax" routine most people do after an early morning's travel - we were on a mission to enjoy every aspect, experience every second, and savor every moment of our short stay in Venice.
The best thing (well, one of the best) about Italy? The food! First thing is first when you arrive in a new city - sample the local delicacy. "Pizza Sfogliatta con fontina e prosciutto crudo," the Venetian rolled up pizza with fontina cheese and raw ham. Combine the pizza with a delicious caffe latte, add in the view of the beautiul Canale della Guidecca, sprinkle in a pinch of the beautiful costumes, and you got yourself a recipe for a heavenly meal! We took a stroll along the Guidecca Canal after lunch, stopping numerous times to pose for photos with the dressed up locals in the most extravagant costumes. The next few hours were spent exploring the city, wandering the streets aimlessly, forgetting all about the time of day. That's the thing with Italy - it makes you forget the passing of time, almost as if wanting you to treasure each moment as it comes without worrying about the next.
It was the darkness that gave away the time of day - dinnertime. We wandered off the main street onto a little side street (this is the best way to find hidden restaurants with the best local delicacies, for these restaurants do not cater to the tourist taste buds), and came upon a cozy restaurant with a most friendly waiting staff. A delicious lasagna, a plate of gnocchi, a mouthwatering steak and an amazing bottle of white wine later, me and the girls were on our way to our next adventure - the local disco the waiter at the restaurant had recommended. Nothing beats dancing the night away to Italian music after one of the best days of my life!
February 21, 2009 (Saturday)
It was this morning that I "fell in love" with our hotel - they served a most delicious breakfast to us! Italian pastries, fresh fruit, a most interesting Italian cereal made of oatmeal flakes, raisins and nuts, fresh cappuccino and my personal favorite - nutella on fresh bread! How can a person not be in a great mood after a jumpstart like that! We headed out the door early, for Janalee had a full day's itinerary planned for us (now, whether or not we actually followed the itinerary is a whole different story!). We started out by visiting Peggy Guggenheim's gallery of modern art. It took Janalee a little while to explain to me the "how's and why's" of modern art - in a period of two hours I went from a "modern art rookie," criticizing the blobs of colorful paint shown in almost every picture, to a person showing much promise in the interpretation ability of modern art - I even saw a circus scene, a bikerider and a tropical island in the paintings that were mere blobs before! Who knew being a little more open-minded could completely change a person's perspective!
Next was the Galleria dell'Accademia, the Academia Gallery of Venice. For the millionth time in Italy, the overwhelming feeling a person gets when seeing the most indescribably beautiful masterpieces of world famous artists came back to me. Magnificent, glorious, splendid, brilliant, extraordinary, remarkable masterpieces whose glory and beauty are timeless. Leonardo da Vinci, Giulio Carpioni, Antonello da Messina, Lorenzo Lotto, Luca Giordano, Pietro Gaspari,Charles Le Brun, Pietro Longhi and numerous other extraordinary artists have their workd displayed in this gallery. However, it was one particular masterpiece that caught my attention - Giovanni Bellini's "Annunciazione," the Annocation. And no, it was not the beautiful shading, the vivid colors, the realism of the Virgin Mary and the Angel, the perfect use of perspective or even the beauty of the delicate flower the angel was holding up that made me fall in love (for lack of a better expression) with this masterpiece - it was the fact that Bellini's whole spirit and belief in the scene shone through every brush stroke, every shadow, every inch of his artwork. The fact that he put so much love and devotion into creating this painting completely overwhelmed me; a passion this strong is something people look for their whole entire lives, and Bellini was lucky enough to find it in his artwork. It's a shame it took me twenty years of my life to find my favorite painter!
After the Galleria dell'Accademia came what was becoming my favortite time of day in Italy - dinner. We settled for some paninis at a little cafe right on the water, facing the Grand Canal. The spectacular view was accompanied by delightful music of a carnival band and the unforgettable taste of Italian coffee. Following dinner the girls and I went back to our hotel to prepare for the night's events - a grand carnival celebration, costume parade and acrobatics performance at the Piazza San Marco. Instead of the usual 30 minute walk, the human "traffic" extended the time it took to get to San Marco to about 2 hours - which we did not mind, considering the walk in itself was a show filled with colorful decorations and magnificent costumes. Piazza San Marco was filled with thousands of people, tourists and locals, singing, dancing and laughing, almost in unison, celebrating Carnevale. An acrobat attached to a large balloon soared the sky above the crowd, doing flips and twists to beautiful Italian music. A crowd of penguins cheered and danced as they made their way towards the costume contest. Three American girl stood frozen in fascination, absorbing this once-in-a-lifetime experience, one magical moment at a time.